Fun crowds in Stavanger and peace in the beautiful nature of Lysefjord

We stay at anchor in Skadbergväge for the rest of the Easter weekend with cosy noise from other Norwegian boats around us. It is a beautiful hiking area starting directly from the bay where we take tough walks over rocks and through forests marked with blue dots of paint. We chat with the Norwegian sailboats and get tips for Svalbard. On Saturday night, we see lots of small boats sailing in the distance all with lights on ... the Easter wake 🐣👌. Translated with DeepL.com (free version)

On Easter Sunday, all the boats leave and we are once again all alone. We stay another day; the next stretch to the north will be motors for the next few days anyway and tomorrow the wave height will be max 0.5 m and today 1.5 m. We spend 3 days and 4 nights at anchor without having to start the generator. Even using the washing machine, airfryer, coffee and tea making and heating. The solar panel helps charge well and the batteries are still at 10% when we leave. What a top improvement those lithium batteries 👍😃.

 

It is a very quiet 5-hour trip over flat water to Tananger. A convenient stop on the way north, but the village itself is a bit dead and boring, so we sail straight on to Stavanger for 2 hours the next day.

Stavanger is a very cosy and lively city, built on a big hill. It is also a rich city as it is Norway's oil city (since 1969 when oil was first found there). We moor right in the centre close to a large and a somewhat smaller cruise boat. In the evening, we hear lively music on the streets. Stavanger also seems to be Norway's culinary capital. Of course we are going to try that out ... the first evening we eat delicious Thai food and the second evening a fantastic 5-course dinner in a trendy fish restaurant by the harbour. Both very good 👌😋. Food prices are the same as in the Netherlands, but alcohol in a restaurant is three times as expensive 🥲.

 

We make a nice walk through the city and see different districts. We also visit the very informative oil museum. We always like to know a bit more of the history and background of places we visit. So we are now following the Norwegian series ‘State of Happiness (Lykkeland)’ (via BBC player and VPN on UK). That one is about Stavanger's development from a small Christian village (with farmers and fishermen) to a very prosperous and developed city that makes money mainly in the oil industry. As we sailed to Tananger, six helicopters flew over us in a short time, bringing and picking up people to and from the oil drilling platforms.

After the crowds of Stavanger, we sail on to Lysefjord. We anchor at the beginning of the fjord for two nights in the very quiet Vikavågen bay, in the middle of nature with the high walls of the fjord around us. Something very different from a busy city again, but it is precisely this variety that makes the migratory life by sailboat so much fun 😃⛵️.

 

We take a brisk walk of 5.5 hours, 13.5 km and with 700 altitude metres. It is quite a bit of ascending and descending again on uneven rocky paths. This time by following red paint dots. The weather is beautifully sunny, giving us good, distant views (of the sea and Stavanger). The deciduous trees are already sprouting nicely here, making the surroundings not so grey but nice and fresh green. A very nice walk but also quite tough 💪😅.

We sail a little deeper into the fjord to Flørli. On the way, we pass the ‘Preikestolen’. We climbed there in 2011 with the daughters in the fog. We can't walk up to it from here so we keep it to a photo from the water.

Flørli is a special place near a water power plant where we are moored with the back to a buoy and with the front to the quay via two lines. The weather remains lovely and sunny with a clear blue sky ☀️😊. At the end of the afternoon, the wind picks up and we are bobbing up and down on the waves. That's a bit exciting and what do we do tonight? Stay here? We first have dinner at the little restaurant in the old power station, which is open for the first time this weekend (delicious fish soup with freshly baked bread). It is run by a Dutch man and a Norwegian woman with whom we chat for a while. Back on the boat, the wind has died down and we decide to stay for the night. Apparently it was a sea wind/fjord wind which is there for a while in the afternoon.

 

Mira is happy about that because it allows her to hike the next morning up the wooden stairs with 4,444 steps to 700m altitude along a large tube (through which water for energy flows down). Toine stays on the boat and gives his body another day of rest. It is a beautiful hike with some challenges. But that's precisely why it's great fun to do 😊👍💪👌.

Back from the walk, we sail out of Lysefjord again and anchor in the sheltered bay of the islet Ådnøy. We stay here for a day in grey weather with some rain. Toine gives the engine a major service and Mira is busy with duolingo Norwegian (I'm in the highest Diamond league for the first time 😃) and trying out dishes in the airfryer such as a chocolate cake and roasted cauliflower florets for dinner. That airfryer has a lot of undiscovered possibilities and that makes us even more independent of gas 👍.

Our last stop near Lysefjord is the village of Jørpeland. This is a handy stop to do some shopping. The supermarket is near the harbour. We also buy some wine for the first time, and that can only be done here in a state shop with nationwide unit prices also online to be found 🤔. We are not yet disappointed by what we can find at a somewhat normal price. Besides, other things like port fees and diesel are actually much cheaper 😃.

Eline and Jonas have in the meantime also arrived in Norway and are driving around in a campervan. We call them occasionally and will see them in Bergen in less than two weeks 🥰.

Reactions

  1. Twan Biemans

    Twee jaar geleden lag ik in diezelfde baai aan de Lysefjord voor anker. Het was het slechtste weer van mijn hele reis maar toch enorm genoten.

    Die wandeling met 700 meter hoogteverschil wilden Marleen en ik ook maken maar het was zo nat en glad dat we het na een halve kilometer (gelukkig) hebben opgegeven!

    Geniet van de prachtige omgeving. Ik blijf meelezen!

    Greetings,
    Twan
    a/b Kendu

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